Wet sanding and rubbing out new paint does require some products that can be harmful, if used improperly. Please read the directions and pay attention to the warning labels. Chemicals affect everyone the same, they don’t just warn everyone else, companies put those warnings on there for you.

Above is the products I use to rub out fresh paint.

Here is a supply list:
- 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, it is the black sandpaper.
- Bucket. Keep your sandpaper in it to keep it clear and wet.
- Sanding block. You will need a sanding block, I use one that is a hard rubber on one side and a softer side. Do not use just your hands, you will just sand it uneven and even sand in finger grooves.
- Buffer, a high speed polisher used to polish paint. Grinders are way too fast. Most automotive buffers are 3000 rpm, which is great, if it has a speed control slow it down to 2200.
- Buffer pads. I use a wool pad for compounding and a foam pad for the final polish. You can purchase a coarse foam pad and that will work fine also. I use wool because it runs cooler and is hard to ‘burn‘ the paint.
- Compound. Polishing is making finer and finer scratches until the scratches don’t appear….unless magnified. Compound is the product to remove the sand scratches left behind wet sanding. 3M makes a fantastic compound named Perfect-It III, it is a “break down” compound, so as you polish it actually breaks down and polishes out to a gloss. I am just recommending Perfect-It, there is some great compounds out there. Use either your wool pad or coarse (black) foam pad, with compound.
- Polish. I recommend 3m Perfect-It pn.5996 along with a fine (blue) foam pad. Once again , only suggesting 3m, once again there is some great polishes, just get one that says “final” polish. I also strongly suggest whatever polish you use that it says “body shop safe’ or “contains no wax or silicones”.
- Hand glaze. Use a hand glaze to put on the final gloss and help protect your finish until you can wax it. I will explain later….

Here is my victim. I just rubbed it with a damp rag to remove any dust. This case was painted yesterday.

Spray the panel down with water, just mix in a “touch” of cleaner, 409 or simple green etc to your water, just put a few drops per gallon. The cleaner acts as a lubricant and it helps keep the paper clean. Wrap a piece of 1500 that you have soaked in the bucket for a few minutes and start sanding your part that you have watered down. Sand in the same direction, that way you will keep the scratches going the same direction and it will make it easier to polish out, trust me.

Sand until there is no shiny paint. When all of the orange peel is removed the paint will get this even sanded appearance. To see this you need to dry the part and then just blow some air on it to dry. When you get an even appearance stop, there is no need to keep going.

Here is a dirt nib, I will sand this out, but there is no need to sand the edges, or sand to close to the handle. Always remember while sanding, that you are going to be polishing it, and you need to get those buffer pads on all the sand scratches.